Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II from around 1113 as a state temple dedicated to Vishnu and probably as his own funerary monument. It covers 162 hectares within a rectangular moat 190 m wide, and the sandstone was floated 40 km from the Kulen hills along canals dug for the purpose. Unlike most of Angkor, it was never abandoned: Buddhist monks have maintained it continuously since the sixteenth century.
Orientation
The temple faces west, which is unusual and one reason it is thought to be funerary. That is also why sunrise photographs work: the sun comes up behind the towers, reflected in the northern pool. Arrive by half past five and expect a crowd of several hundred at the pool; the southern pool is quieter and the reflection is almost as good.
The bas-reliefs
The outer gallery carries 600 m of continuous carved narrative, roughly two metres high. The southern gallery shows Suryavarman himself in procession, and the eastern the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, in which 88 asuras and 92 devas pull a serpent to churn the sea and produce the elixir of immortality. It is the finest single sequence of relief carving in Southeast Asia and it is walked clockwise, which most visitors do not.
The upper level
The Bakan, the central sanctuary at the top, represents Mount Meru and is reached by a very steep wooden staircase. Access is limited to a set number at a time, closed on Buddhist holy days, and requires covered shoulders and knees; a sarong is not enough. Children under twelve are not admitted.
Tickets
The Angkor Pass is bought at the official ticket centre 4 km from Siem Reap, not at the temples: 37 US dollars for one day, 62 for three days used within a week, 72 for seven days within a month. It carries your photograph and is checked at every temple. Buying after five in the afternoon gives you that evening free.
How long
One day is enough to see Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm and leave regretting it. Three days lets you add Banteay Srei, Preah Khan, the Roluos group and a sunset from Pre Rup, and is what most people choose. The heat, not the distance, is what limits you.
Getting around
A tuk-tuk with driver for a day costs 20 to 25 US dollars and is the standard. Bicycles work for the small circuit in cool season. Guides licensed by the authority charge 40 to 50 dollars a day and the bas-reliefs in particular are worth one.